Mustache Wax Recipe


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    There are thousands of mustache wax recipes out there. Mustache wax has been made for hundreds of years, and recipes vary depending on the periods and cultures the waxes were made in. Today, we have access to all the various ingredients different cultures used to make waxes, allowing us to make distinct and complex mustache waxes.

    Homemade Mustache Wax – a DIY Recipe

    There are three hardnesses for mustache waxes–those made with carrier oils, those made with petroleum jelly, (hard) and those made with resins (hardest)–but all of them include beeswax as the primary waxy base. Before I get to the mustache wax recipes, let me briefly explain how each ingredient works so you can decide how hard you want your wax to be.

    Mustache Wax Ingredients

    Carrier Oils – For a Softer, Medium-hold Mustache Wax

    Carrier oils are used in a range of beard grooming products, including beard oil, beard balm, and beard wax. Carrier oils are used to give mustache wax a unique texture, and to help your essential oils (which give your wax scent) spread evenly through the whole mixture.

    There are dozens of carrier oils, which I list in detail on my beard oil recipe page. The two most common carrier oils found in mustache wax are coconut oil and sweet almond oil. Both are “fatty” plant-derived oils that are good for skin. Coconut oil, in particular, is a favorite ingredient by beardsmen.

    Coconut Oil

    coconut-oil

    • Comes in 4 oz bottles.

    Get Coconut Oil

    Sweet Almond Oil

    sweet-almond-oil

    • Comes in 4 oz bottles.

    Get Sweet Almond Oil

    Petroleum Jelly – For a Harder, Medium-hard-hold Mustache Wax

    Petroleum jelly is perhaps the most popular ingredient for mustache wax. It’s easy to work with, melts at a low temperature, and is readily available. It has a distinct texture that is easy to spread into your mustache, and it mixes well with beeswax. Make sure you find an unscented petroleum jelly–get just the pure stuff. Personally, I prefer waxes without petroleum jelly, as I find the jelly to be a tad greasy for my liking. But many men love it.

    Petroleum Jelly

    petroleum-jelly

    Get Petroleum Jelly - 13 oz

    Bulk Petroleum Jelly – 36 pack

    bulk-petroleum-jelly

    Get Bulk Petroleum Jelly - 36 pack

    Resins – For a Hard, Stiff-hold Mustache Wax

    Resins come from trees and other bushy plants. They start as saps and harden to form crystals. Gum arabic, which comes from acacia trees, has been used for generations in mustache wax to make it more sticky.

    To use resins in mustache wax, you need to melt them. If you place them directly in the pan or pot, you risk burning the resin and ruining your pot. Instead, place resins in another solution, such as carrier oils, or melted shea butter or petroleum jelly. Resins can be tricky to work with. Many mustache wax recipes omit resins for this reason. You can make a simple mustache wax with just beeswax and petroleum jelly, so consider this an advanced ingredient. Use resin if you want a specific consistency, a very hard mustache wax, or a strong hold for wiry mustaches. Your customer may need to use a hot air hair dryer to melt the wax before applying, and a mustache wax remover to remove it when done.

    Resins come in both raw and powdered form. Raw resins often come with bark and other plant bits in them, which need to be sifted out when melted. While often used by painters to mix their own paints, powdered resins can also be used in mustache wax in place of the raw resin. The benefit to using powdered resins is that you can make precise measurements, and you don’t have to worry about removing bark and plant bits.

    Each resin has its own unique scent. Resins are frequently used as burnable incense, because they typically have a strong aroma. When crafting your mustache wax, make sure to use a resin that has the scent you want, and that will mix well with whatever essential oils you add.

    Gum Arabic – Raw

    gum-arabic

    Get Gum Arabic Raw

    Gum Arabic – Powdered

    powdered-gum-arabic

    Get Gum Arabic Powder

    Gum Rosin (Pine Resin) – Raw

    gum-rosin

    Get Raw Gum Rosin

    Gum Rosin (Pine Resin) – Powdered

    gum-rosin-powder

    Get Powdered Gum Rosin

    Beeswax

    Beeswax is the primary ingredient of mustache wax. It gives mustache wax it’s characteristic holding power. By itself, beeswax is too hard to use as mustache wax without melting it first before applying with a hot air hair dryer. All other ingredients are designed to give mustache wax scent, texture, and its ability to spread on hair.

    Beeswax comes as pellets or in bars. I find that pellets are better for making small batches of mustache wax–one or two tins. Bars are better when you’re making a big vat of wax.

    Beeswax comes as yellow or white. Typically, beeswax looks clear when applied to a mustache. Men with very white beards complain of a waxy, yellow-sih look in their mustache when using a yellow wax. When crafting a wax for older men with gray hair, use white beeswax.

    Alternatively, men with very dark hair (black or dark brown) complain that the mustache wax is visible in their mustaches, in white or yellow tints. For them, you can change the color of your wax by adding a dark essential oil like licorice, or by adding dark food coloring (black or brown).

    For a very stiff mustache wax, use resin and more wax. For a medium-hold mustache wax, use less beeswax and more shea butter, petroleum jelly, or carrier oils.

    Beeswax Bars – Yellow

    beeswax-bar-yellow

    $6.30 – 5, 1oz bars

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    Beeswax Pellets – Yellow

    beeswax-pellets-yellow

    $12.99 – 1lb (also available in 2lbs)

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    Beeswax Bars – White

    beeswax-bar-white

    $5.45 – 5 1oz bars

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    Beeswax Pellets – White

    white-beeswax-pellets

    $19.20 – 2lbs

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    Beeswax Pellets – Bulk – Yellow

    bilk-beeswax

    $55.84 – 8 lbs

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    If you’re working on building your mustache wax empire, invest in beeswax in bulk. This will save you a ton of cash in the long run, in both cents-on-the-ounce, and in shipping costs.

    Essential Oils

    Essential oils are the oils that give your mustache wax its scent. Use essential oils sparingly, as some essential oils, like tea tree oil, can irritate your skin if used too much. That said, essential oils give your wax its defining character. A masculine smelling mustache wax will have sandalwood, cedar, or pine essential oils, for example. Oils like tea tree have amazing medical benefits, like helping with dandruff.

    I have an exhaustive index of all known carrier oils and essential oils on my beard oil recipe page, with links where you can find them, either in bulk or as stand-alone bottles.

    essential-oil-chart

    Grow a Beard NOW Essential Oil Scent Chart

    Browse More Oils

    Butters

    Some recipes call for butters, like shea butter and cacao butter. Butters are used to make mustache wax more spreadable. Unlike with beard balm, you should use only a little butter in your mustache wax–just enough to give it the consistency you want.

    Shea Butter

    shea-butter

    $15.99 – 1lb – Comes in Yellow or Ivory

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    Cocoa Butter

    cocao-butter

    $15.99 – 1lb – Comes in 1, 2, or 44lbs

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    Tools

    In addition to the measurement and transfer tools I list on my beard oil recipe page (I include important things like funnels, transfer pipettes, and eyedroppers), crafting mustache wax requires its own special tools. Here is what you’ll need.

    Kitchen Scale

    kitchen-scale

    $24.97

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    You probably already have one of these in your kitchen, but if not, snag one for weighing your ingredients. This will become important when you start making large batches for sale.

    The Cooking Vat

    beard-balm-vat

    $15.26 – Holds 4lbs

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    I highly recommend you buy a special pot or vat used solely for cooking mustache wax. Mustache wax is sticky and waxy and can be a pain to clean, especially if you leave the vat out unwashed all night. Besides, you don’t want your dinner tasting like mustache wax. Since you will be pouring your melted mixture into your desired container, find a pot that is easy to pour. This is the one I use:

    If you are making smaller portions, use a smaller 2lb pitcher like this:

    Containers

    The container you choose gives your mustache wax character. Most mustache waxes come in round tins. This is useful because it suits the natural way people get wax out of the tin–by moving their fingers along the rim in a circle. Rectangular tins also exist. These are often used for lip balms. Since few mustache waxes come in rectangular tins, it may make your wax stand out.

    You need to figure out how much mustache wax you want in each tin, as tins come in different sizes, ranging from .25 oz to 8 oz. Here is a collection of tins in various sizes:

    4 oz

    beard-balm-tin

    $13.88 – 12 tins

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    6 oz

    beard-balm-tin

    $14.49 – 12 tins

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    8 oz

    beard-balm-tin

    $16.21 – 12 tins

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    1 oz & 2 oz Available

    small-beard-balm-tin

    Ranging from $7.99 to $21.99. Available tin count: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    .25 oz

    rectangle-tin

    $7.74 – 5 tins

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    .25 oz

    sliding-tin

    $37 – 27 tins. Sliding lid with included label.

    grow-a-beard-now-shopping-button

    Delivery Sacks

    Many makers of fine mustache wax deliver their waxes in small burlap or cotton muslin sacks. This adds a nice touch that your customer will greatly appreciate. Muslin sacks are very cheap. You can get a stack of 100 small sacks for $21, making each sack $.21.

    How to Make Mustache Wax

    Step 1

    Measure out all your ingredients before placing anything on your stove, according to your recipe. Also, set out your desired tins with the caps off, ready to accept your completed wax mixture. Once the ingredients are melted, you will have to mix them together quickly to avoid burning them, which leaves you with no time to do any measuring.

    Step 2

    Place your beeswax in your candle making pitcher, and put it on your stove on a medium heat. You don’t want to burn your beeswax, so once fully melted, turn the heat down to low. As every range is different, the low heat may cause some of the wax to solidify. If it does, turn the knob up slightly until all the wax is melted and stays melted. If you are worried about burning your wax, and if you are only making small portions, consider using a candle warmer instead of your range.

    Step 3

    In a separate container, place your carrier oils and, depending on your recipe, shea butters or petroleum jelly. Heat them on your stove on a medium heat until melted, then turn the knob down to low.

    Note: If you use resins, you’ll need to increase the temperature of both your wax and your melted oils. Both mixtures need to be at the same temperature to combine them later. Place either the raw resins or the measured powdered resins into your carrier oils and shea butter on a high heat. Heat on high until the resins are completely melted into the solution. If using raw resin, sift out the bark and plant detritus that floats to the top. It may be helpful to pour the melted solution through a metal mesh coffee filter. Be careful, as the mixture will be very hot.

    Step 4

    Once all the ingredients are melted, add your essential oils to your carrier oil/butter/resin mixture.

    Step 5

    Immediately pour your oil, butter, and resin mixture into your candle making vat with the beeswax. Stir the ingredients together well, keeping the mixture at the right temperature to keep everything liquid, but not hot enough to burn the ingredients. If your mixture is at a rolling boil, then you have it too hot.

    Step 6

    Immediately pour your melted mustache wax into your desired tin. Some people choose to use glass mason jars as their container, instead of a tin. If you do, make sure that you warm the mason jars in hot water before pouring your wax mixture, or else the glass could shatter. You don’t need to worry about this if you use tins.

    Step 7

    Set your tins aside to harden overnight. In the morning, you will have a handsome batch of custom made mustache wax. Congratulations, O bearded fellow! You can now add your brand labels to the tins, and sell them or hand out to friends.

     

    Mustache Wax Recipes

    Now for the mustache wax recipes! The following are a collection of mustache wax recipes from around the web. Not all of them call for every ingredient listed above. You should experiment with different units of measurement if you don’t like the consistency you get from each recipe. Also, be prepared to do a bit of math if you need to when making larger batches from small recipes, or smaller batches from large recipes.

    Measuring Beeswax - Beeswax Conversion Chart

    The following chart comes from Super Formulas Arts & Crafts by Elaine C. White.

    Unlike most ingredients, the liquid volume of beeswax is exactly the same as its dry weight. This makes for easy conversion. Thus, if you melt down one ounce (by dry weight) of beeswax, it will equal one fluid ounce of melted beeswax.

    PoundsCupsOuncesTablespoons
    .51
    12
    .25.548
    .51816
    121632

    Solid Wax

    by Apothecary’s Garden

    Makes about 16 oz

    Hungarian

    by Bud Peppers

    Makes about 1 oz

    -Stache Wax

    by Soap Deli News

    Makes about 10 oz

    Headley Wax

    by Headley the Hunter

    Makes about 1 oz

    Bergamot

    by G.M. Norton

    Makes about 4 oz

    Imperial

    by Ore.e Ref.

    Makes about 1 oz

    Dad’s Wax

    by SoapDeliNews

    Makes about 6.5 oz

    Stache Wax

    by WholeSale Supplies

    Makes just over 10 oz

    Bonus Recipe: Hungarian Mustache Pomade from 1867

    If you’re looking for a traditional mustache wax that was used by mustachioed men for generations, take a look at the Hungarian Mustache Pomade recipe, found in the Encyclopedia of Practical Receipts and Processes, from 1867. This recipe remained unchanged for decades, and was used by men for generations. Here are the directions verbatim:

    Hungarian Pomade for the Moustache. Melt by a gentle heat 1/2 pound gum-arabic, and 1/2 pound of oil soap, in 1 pint rose water, then add 1 pound white wax, constantly stirring; when of a uniform consistency, add 1 ounce attar of bergamot, and 1 drachm attar of thyme, for perfume. If required to be brown, color it with tube-burnt umber ; or for black, use tube ivory-black.

    Translated into modern-day units of measure, it looks like this:

    Makes about 49 oz.

    I hope you enjoy the recipes! If you try making the wax, let us know how you did in the comments below.

    Featured image by potzukomo on Flickr. Creative Commons license.


    Build Your Shop


    Now that you have your product, it’s time to build your online shop. Shopify is a great place to build your online shop. They have a drag-and-drop interface that anyone can use, and they handle all the payment processing for you. There’s no easier way to craft an online shop for your beard product empire than to use Shopify.

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    If you are looking for a more high-touch service, I build websites and do marketing consulting. Send me a line on my consulting website with details of your project and I’ll give you a quote.



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    About the Author

    Brandon M. Dennis
    Greetings, fellow beardsmen! I'm a beard health expert and journalist working out of Seattle, Washington. I'm also an author, marketer, and story-teller. Read my swashbuckling fantasy sea adventure novel, The Tale of Cloran Hastings, and click my name to learn more about me. Enjoy the site!
    Brandon M. Dennis

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    Comments

    1. Awesome of you to share your knowledge and experience with others. Your commitment to engendering in others the spirit and – at least I feel this way – the ethos associated with a true commitment to “the Beard,” , is very apparent, and for that I thank you. I’ve grown beards, goatees and moustaches over the years, but it has only been within the past year or so that the process, the pride, and the comradery of Beard has transected my daily way of being. It’s a truly, and purely, masculine Pursuit that helps create community, and I am grateful to come across stewards such as yourself who lend both credence and significance to it. Thanks for all of the information and good will you spread thru your website, et al. Take care.

    2. Mustache Wax/Beard Wax, same thing?

    3. Hi Brandon !

      What about Lanolin ?
      I thought we can use it instead of petroleum jelly.

      Do you know anything aboute this ?

      Cheers from France!

    4. Ivan Worthington says:

      I recently found at sprouts, natural foods, beeswax in granule form. I’m going to be using it today to test out. It came in an amount of 16oz. I’ll let ya know how it works out.

    5. Anybody have a recipe for beard wax?

      • I do, but since I own a commercial beard care company I’m not quite willing to give you my recipe. However, as Brandon said, beard balm is much softer than mustache wax and it’s primary purpose is to soften and condition your beard. If you were to take the “Headley” recipe above and change the ratios so there is more of the softer component (coconut oil) and less beeswax, you should be able to make a passable beard conditioning balm.

    6. I have been struggling to get my resin powder to melt. Is there a trick to it? It would seem that the most successful attempt has been where I mix the resin with water before adding it to the wax/oil/lanolin mixture (mostly wax), but still way to sticky and I was looking for a firm to very firm hold. Any ideas?
      My current recipe:

      10g Gum Arabic
      10 ml Water
      10 ml Sweet Almond oil
      10g Coconut oil
      10g Coco butter
      5g Lanolin
      50g Beeswax

      • I wonder what would happen IF you chose to mix in some of the lightest oil to ’emulsify’ it slightly (think mayonnaise.) I am thinking that emulsifying it would alleviate the stickiness being so concentrated, at least when mixing it. Now that I think about it, you are only trying to mix the sticky gel into the rest.perhaps mixing oil into….. strike that doing something like an Italian dressing and mixing it together by shaking the oils and water together and THEN adding that to the DRY powder.I would say something like maybe 1-2ml of one of the oils to the 10 ml of water. I would say … i started to do some homework. I searched and it seems that Gum Arabic is already a blend with water. What I found more interesting is that it is sometimes used as an emulsifier to stabilize oil/water mixtures! My advice, first add a SMALL amount of the lightest oil to the Arabic and then progressively alternate between that oil and water until the water is gone. If the oil has ran out, move to the next heaviest oil. Now, when you melt the beeswax and melt the most solid ingredients into it, warm it gently. I imagine that the wax will be last to melt. Second thought, melt the wax by itself, but toward the end allow it to cool ‘just enough’ so that it starts to solidify where it touches whatever container you’re using. at this point raise the temp to keep it all melted, but barely just. then add the other ingredient to it. I would think by this time you probably can mix things as you see fit. This all hangs, naturally, on the ’emulsion’ of Gum Arabic you formed earlier.

    7. I have a bit of advice about your melting methods. I make lotion at home, basically the same concept in different amounts (am looking here for a recipe for my hubby). Beeswax melts at 160°, your mixture shouldn’t get above 180°, water boils at 212°. If you’re worried about burning, use a double boiler method. I use a pyrex measuring cup sitting in a sauce pan of water (if you use a metal cup keep in mind metal conducts, glass insulates). If your water is visibly boiling at all, it’s too hot, Medium-Low should be the hottest setting you need, maybe start it on medium to start heating the water but turn it down when you add your double-boiling pyrex. heat all your carriers together for about 10 minutes at the melting point, beyond when it is visibly melted together, and stir consistently. Your essential oils should be added after you have removed it from heat, many of them will degrade at high heats and your finished product won’t keep as long. An easy preservative is to add a capsule of Vit E oil. If you keep things at this low heat you can put directly in room-temperature mason jars.

      Lastly, don’t use Petroleum Jelly. There is no such thing as “Pure petroleum jelly”, it is literally the scum scooped off the top of oil during the refinement process, it’s a by-product, you don’t want it on your skin and you don’t want to be breathing it all day, just don’t use it.

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